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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.